• Police 10 Codes

TitleNumber of Participants With Any Abnormal Laboratory Test Results (Part 1. and 2)DescriptionThe total number of participants with laboratory test abnormalities (w.DescriptionThe total number of participants with laboratory test abnormalities (without regard to baseline abnormality) was assessed.This endpoint was a primary endpoint for Part 1 (timeframe Days 1 to 14), as data for this timeframe were not reported separately, Part 1 and 2 data were reported together.Time FrameDay 1 (Baseline) up to Day 90. The FAS consisted of all randomized participants who took any study medication (active or placebo). Participants analyzed indicated number of participants evaluated.Arm/Group TitleCohort 1: PF-03049423 1 mgCohort 1: PlaceboCohort 2: PF-03049423 3 mgCohort 2: PlaceboCohort 3: PF-03049423 6 mgCohort 3: PlaceboArm/Group Description:Participants received PF-03049423 1.Participants received placebo match.Participants received PF-03049423 3.Participants received placebo match.Participants received PF-03049423 6.Participants received placebo match.Arm/Group Description. TitleNumber of Participants With Vital Signs Data Met Criteria of Potential Clinical Concern (Part 1.

and 2)DescriptionVital signs included blood pressure (BP; supine, sitting and standing).DescriptionVital signs included blood pressure (BP; supine, sitting and standing) and pulse rate. Vital signs criteria of potential clinical concern were 1), BP: systolic BP (SBP) greater than or equal to (=) 30 or 50 millimeters of mercury (mm Hg) change from grand baseline in same posture, systolic less than (=20 mm Hg change from grand baseline in same posture, diastolic ) 120 beats per minute (bpm); Standing: 140 bpm.This endpoint was a primary endpoint for Part 1 (timeframe Days 1 to 14), as data for this timeframe were not reported separately, Part 1 and 2 data were reported together.Time FrameDay 1 (Baseline) up to follow-up (28 days after Day 90).

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The FAS consisted of all randomized participants who took any study medication (active or placebo). N=number of evaluable participants.Arm/Group TitleCohort 1: PF-03049423 1 mgCohort 1: PlaceboCohort 2: PF-03049423 3 mgCohort 2: PlaceboCohort 3: PF-03049423 6 mgCohort 3: PlaceboArm/Group Description:Participants received PF-03049423 1.Participants received placebo match.Participants received PF-03049423 3.Participants received placebo match.Participants received PF-03049423 6.Participants received placebo match.Arm/Group Description. TitleNumber of Participants With Electrocardiograms (ECGs) Data Met Criteria of Potential Clinical Concern (Part 1.

My limited experience has me agreeing with fyrwoodguy.Two days ago I sharpened my first chain in many years. My right hand held the plastic handled 3/16' file and my left hand supported the side of the cutter. Just two or three very light swipes with the file from inside to outside on each cutter and the job was finished. I use a red magic marker to mark the first link so I know where I started. Keep the file level and follow the guide or 'lubber' line on the cutter for the proper angle. The entire process took 3-4 minutes and the saw cut smooth and straight. I did this with the saw on the lowered tail gate of my JD Gator which allows a very comfortable sharpening position.The only reason I do not use an electric sharpener is ignorance and lack of confidence on my part.

It seems to me that some cutters require a straight cut and others require a radius cut. I do not see how electric sharpeners (except the Dremel) can make a radius cut. It is also quite probable that I could easily remove too much metal with an electric bench sharpener and ruin the chain or shorten its life by more than half.This is only my opinion based on my limited experience. Some others, who have a whole lot more experience and talent than I will quickly and rightly disagree with my thoughts on the subject.Best Wishes,JohnM. I don't own a grinder but I think that to use one properly requires more skill than to file by hand.

My father could never sharpen a chain so I bought him one of those file guides that you clamp onto the bar. He never could get the angles and depth settings right to use it. Aside from using it a couple of times trying to teach him how to use it, I always just file by hand.I agree about the stump vise but not sure about the combo tool. A naked round file with a good pistol grip handle is all you need. Contrary to what a lot of people say about the rakers, they don't need a lot of filing. Click to expand.Woah!

TMI.TMI.TMI!!There is a show on the Food Network with Alton Brown. One of his main gripes is with 'uni taskers' ie things that can only do one function. He prefers instead, 'multi tasking tools' or things that can do a wide range of tasks.With that said, I use a set of files for light touch up work between tanks of gas, and I have the appropriate sized sharpening stone for my dremmel tool which makes quick work of sharpening the chain if I happen to ding a rock or piece of barbed wire. The dremmel is easy to control and can take as much or as little material out as needed.

I'd highly recommend it over a grinder which would hog out a lot of material every time and can only be used to sharpen the chain, nothing else. After learning to file a saw chain by hand(with sharp file)and doing my customers 'dulled':gulp: for 30+ years, i finally caved in and bought one of these rig'sbefore i bought this grinder,i learned thru my customers how hard a chain can get by the use of one of these rig's. I have cut with a chainsaw since I was 17 cutting pine for my dad. I tried and tried to learn to sharpen by hand (I can usually get the hang of things, I do all my own handy man work, have built on rooms, fix the car, I can even program the dvd player) but I NEVER got to be a good chain sharpener. I bought 6 chains, and took them in to be sharpened when dull.So this year I bought the same Oregon sharpener as above, and I love it.

I have ruined one chain by getting it too hot (practiced on my older ones), but now that I have the hang of it, it only takes a few minutes per chain, and they stay sharp forever (unless of course they get into dirt, or worse). When I think it is getting a little dull, I'll change it out, and sharpen it later that night.The guys I cut with all sharpen their own with a file, and they are good at it and their chains stay sharp, I just never figured it out.A good sharpener is not cheap by the way, need to spend at least 150, but you get what you pay for. My cost, 7.00/chain sharpening, X 6 chains per month = 42/ month when I am cutting a lot of wood. If you are sharpening well by hand, then that is by far cheaper. LLig: One caveat on your response. Some steels will 'air quench' and get harder just from relatively rapid cooling in ambient air temp, depending on how hot they got when ground. I dunno, but it is possible that they will harden w/ ambient air.

Funny that one person mentioned never being able to get the hang of hand sharpening. I used to have students fabricate the tip of a drill bit out of 1/2' hot rolled round steel. They'd file two rough flutes in the end of a 6' piece, then try to grind it to look like a drill bit. A few kids worked on their piece till it was a stub, then got another; repeating till I gave them a 'pass' for effort. Something will come along to boggle any and all of us sooner or later.

Police 10 Codes

For me, it's a long list. Hand filing for sure is the best way.if you can do it. I've seen more than one guy ruin a chain pretty darned fast.As for me, I hand filed for many, many moons.

Unfortunately, my hands just hurt too darned much to do that any longer so I use the dremel tool. Wish I'd have started sooner. It does a fine job as long as you don't overheat the tooth and keep good grinders in the tool. Yes, they wear down; instead of trying to get all you can out of them, put in a new one. That is what I do and my hands appreciate it.

Hand filing for sure is the best way. If you can do it. I've seen more than one guy ruin a chain pretty darned fast.As for me, I hand filed for many, many moons. Unfortunately, my hands just hurt too darned much to do that any longer so I use the dremel tool. Wish I'd have started sooner.

It does a fine job as long as you don't overheat the tooth and keep good grinders in the tool. Yes, they wear down; instead of trying to get all you can out of them, put in a new one. That is what I do and my hands appreciate it. I'm definitely doing something wrong. I ended last season with a bunch of dull sawchains (I have 3 safety chains) and I gave them to the local Stihl shop and had them sharpened. What a difference. I handsharpened them and again, they didn't cut half as good as the ones from the shop, though they were better than before.

I bought those dremel bits and I'm going to try that as the Stihl shop charges like $8 per chain and sometimes has a week turnaround. I checked the Husqvarna website as I have a Husky 359 and Husky chain sharpening tool and I am doing it right, as far as procedure goes. I'd rather not have to invest in a sharpening machine though but will because nothing is worse than a dull chain.The 359 uses a.375 pitch and a 7/8th file.Jay.